When you are dealing with a really talented report, one who really knows how to listen and tell the stories of real people, religion can show up in the most unusual and touching places.
Veteran Washington Post foreign correspondent Pamela Constable is one of the best and, clearly, she gets religion — in a wide variety of cultures. She has even written a book on that, “Fragments of Grace: My Search for Meaning in the Strife of South Asia.” I should be honest and admit that Constable has spoken to my students before on Capital Hill, when stateside, and I sure hope that she can do that again.
The other day, Constable served up an unusual, first person, non-snarky Style section piece that, on first glance, is the story of a dog. The headline: “Ahu & Me: A Dog Is Lost, Hope Is Found In Pakistan.”
The basic plot: Experienced foreign traveler meets dog. She adopts dog, then has to leave town on assignment. While gone, the dog vanishes. So she has to go looking for the dog. End the end, she finds Ahu, which, we are told, means “deer” in Afghan Dari.
That’s the story and you should read it.
But GetReligion readers will want to pay special attention to the fine details of the search. You see, this isn’t really a story about a dog. It’s the lost dog that opens doors into the heart of the real Islamabad and, once Constable is away from the streets that most foreigners see, she finds herself traveling deeper and deeper into unseen communities, including religious minorities.
She here is a sample:
Islamabad is a city of many pet owners but few animal lovers. Affluent families dote on imported Persian and Siamese cats and retired officers walk their German shepherds or stout yellow labs, but I have rarely seen anyone express concern or affection for a street dog. The snobbery of the elite is passed down to the servant class. Ahu looked like a hundred other homeless dogs, and the guards and sweepers and drivers we met in our search regarded her as having no value. If we were looking for a local stray, they told us with looks of faint distaste, we should try the nearby “Christian Colony.”
This turned out to be a warren of alleys and shacks, hidden behind a wall and inhabited by several hundred families of garbage scavengers. Christians are a small, mostly impoverished minority in Muslim Pakistan, popularly disparaged as thieves and drunks. The colony filled a designated economic niche, like a community of “untouchables” in India. In every alley, boys delivered bulging sacks and men weighed piles of glass and cardboard for resale.
The inhabitants were astonished and amused to see us, but they were neither rude nor threatening. Dirt-streaked boys surrounded us and eagerly took the fliers; shopkeepers listened politely to our story. “Madam, do not worry, we find your dog,” one old man selling a pile of eggplants promised gallantly.
There were indeed many dogs living in the colony. The community had a reputation for stealing them, but it seemed to me they were treated more as co-inhabitants at the margins of society, neither pampered nor shunned. After several visits, we recognized most of the regulars, and they trotted up wagging their tails. As we broadened our search, scouring parks and vacant lots and garbage pits, we came to know the dogs that lived there, too. After dark they huddled in groups of three or four near the Dumpsters, waiting their turn after the crows and scavenger boys.
Several looked like Ahu, and I kept thinking sadly that they were no less deserving of a better life.
You get the idea.
One contact leads to another. That leads to another set of people passing out fliers and then a journey into another neighborhood, then another. New contacts. New people to meet and new stories to hear.
By all means, please read it. This is a first-story, without a strong journalistic hook. I mean, it’s about a search for a dog. Kind of. In the end, it’s a story about how journalists learn one of the foundation truths of the craft. When you come into a new city, a new community, a new corner of the world — everyone you meet knows more stories than you do.
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Comments (6) |







August 1, 2009, at 1:45 am
I love Constable’s writing. I actually read that story today and didn’t check the byline. You’re right — it’s fantastic.
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August 1, 2009, at 12:27 pm
I really liked that story as well. Too often we look at what is going on elsewhere is much too simplistic terms, overgeneralizing and stereotyping people. It’s great to see a story that shows us some of the real complexity of the world.
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August 1, 2009, at 1:04 pm
The dog’s name is “Ahu” not “Abu” which I would suspect means the same thing in Dari that it does in Arabic, namely “Father of” not (as the author says Ahu does here) “doe.”
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August 1, 2009, at 2:52 pm
It is Ahu.
My mistake and I fixed it. Thanx for the correction.
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August 1, 2009, at 4:13 pm
It would be interesting to know what kind of Christians inhabit “Christian Colony”. I found it on an internet map and there are many references to it on-line. But are these Christians indegenous Eastern Orthodox or Eastern Catholics or more recent converts to some Christian faith from Islam.
Were they in this spot before the dislocations of the split between India and Pakistan or brought along from somewhere else that already had the custom of giving them the lowest-level jobs? Or were they more recently herded into that area. One website called it “France Christian Colony”. What’s that all about? And have these people always been treated this way or is it related to the US (seen as Christian) being in Afghanistan?
None of this is absolutely pertinent to this great article, but could be interesting for future articles. Generic “Christian” could be leaving out important factors in the dynamics.
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August 1, 2009, at 4:16 pm
One last question: do all the Christians in Islamabad live in the “Christian Colony” or only some kinds? Why?
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